Saturday, April 16, 2005

Home sweet home

One of the things I truly miss about Singapore is the smell and sounds of home cooking piping through the kitchens at sunset.

Walking through the neighbourhood block just brings back memories of grandma’s savoury pork dumpling, grandpa’s roast Peking duck, mama’s sweet and sour pork, and mum’s chicken and potato curry. Even dad’s charred pan-fried snapper.

Suddenly, I am 7 again, running around the kitchen with grandma squatting in front of a charcoal stove fanning away, mum yelling at me to stay out of the adults way, and dad’s Cliff Richards’s record playing in the background.

Nothing like a dose of the past to remember my roots, what I am and have grown to be. You tend to forget the important stuff when you are away from home. I am grateful that images of my past are still fresh and real in my mind.


In time to come, when I have children of my own. It would be my dream to impart part of those little treasures onto them. What they have been born into. The heritage so rich, which should never be forgotten.

Sunday, April 10, 2005

Day fourteen continues


While making our way to the entrance of the temple. We stopped to admire and be intrigued by a group of Japanese having a dance and enjoying their picnic. Popped into a few shops to check out famous sake bottles artistic masterpieces and looked at more plastic displays outside teahouses.









Kiyomizudera – Admission fee 400Yen

Built in 1633. This huge temple on stilts was founded by Iemitsu and is now one of the most reputable Buddhist school of Kyoto.

The main hall has a huge veranda which juts out over the hillside, supported by 139 15m high wooden pillars. Under her flows the Otowa-no-taki waterfall, where visitors will drink from the scared water with promises of a new life and therapeutic qualities.

South of the main hall is Koyasu0no0to. A 3-storey pagoda housing a statue of the goddess responsible for safe deliveries of newborns. And north of the main hall. A pair of love stones lurking. Apparently if you miss walking in-between the stones, your desire for love will not come true!

Every other couple of minutes you hear a gong go off. Another prayer said to which every God their desire lies.

The view from the temple grounds of the city is magnificent. You could see all the way to the Kyoto Towers!

And the lighted towers and halls of the temple gave me an eerie yet dazzled sensation.

We stood amongst the crowd quietly for a moment. Taking in as much as we can, our last night in Kyoto. Thankful for all the enriching experience and stunning sights we have felt and seen. And grateful that God has kept us safe all these times.

Tomorrow afternoon. We will be flying back to Singapore. And in a week, back to sunny Sydney.

I was sad and secretly wished that Kansai airport will suddenly declare a state of emergency and shut down for a week or two. Sigh…

Nevertheless, I am very happy for experience. And glad that I have shared it with my lifetime partner and friend, Melvin.

Till our next adventure. Goodbye and see you soon Japan.

Sayonara.

Day fourteen

10th of April. Our second last day in Kyoto. I tried not to think about my sad depart tomorrow and concentrated on enjoying today to its maximum.

I strongly believe that the best way to experience a country is to explore it by foot. It is great how centralised Kemmy’s house is. We could always start our day with destinations within walking distance.

This morning. We are going to visit the
Imperial Palace – Free Admission

Like the many temples and shrines we visited. The Imperial Palace has been struck down with a series of fire destructions. The one standing now was built in 1855. Though similar to its re-successors, this Palace is much smaller than the original. And the grandeur had perhaps been somewhat lost in the move.

Opened only twice yearly during Spring and Autumn. This Palace is adorned with priceless sliding screens, Ko Cosho [small palace], Tsune Cosho [regular palace] and Shinshin-den [ceremonial halls].

Surrounding the Palace are spacious parks with a welcoming landscape of Plum and Cherry Blossom trees. A wonderful place to take a stroll and have a picnic.

We walked through the hall ways and chambers of the Palace with the stream of patriotic Japanese. In awe of the lifestyle the Emperors of past used to live.

After browsing through the mini market camped outside the palace. We made our way through Gion District to
Heian-jingu – free admission.

Passed though lots of old alleyways.

The sight of the Path of Philosophy was breathtaking. Lining the sidewalk to a huge canal river was a parade of weeping cherry blossom trees. No wonder it was given such a peculiar name. I wonder if Confucius has ever walked down that path before…


Heian-jingu - Thought the grounds of this red shrine is free. Entry to the renown garden will set you back 600Yen.

Built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the founding of Koto. This temple is a replica of the [2/3 scale] Imperial Palace.

I took a picture of Mel standing under a HUGE bright red Torii. Seemingly a separate architect to Heian-jingu [as it is distance a far way from the temple], it is actually the entrance to the temple.

We had visited dozens of temples and shrines in the past couple of weeks. And I have to admit. We were reaching a point where we could almost say enough is enough.

However, there was just one last one we have got to see.
Kiyomizudera – Beautifully located by the mountainside. With narrow winding streets filled with traditional stores leading up to it. This is definitely a must see.

On the way up. I spotted a pretty pink bunny in the window of a stuff toy store and took a picture of it. Bought ourselves a stuffed toy cat with golden trimmings. It is now sitting proudly on our lounge, much to the dislike of Salem

If you truly want to experience how Old Japan feels like. I strongly recommend coming here.

Before reaching the temple at the top of the hill. You will get the see old traditional Japanese teahouses. Stores selling wooden art and craft. Sake bottles stores with millions of little cups and jars stacked into old wooden shelves. Appealing to unsuspecting curious tourist of its exorbitant prices. Udon noodle stores, and sweet cakes makers. Wooden Japanese clog slippers and kimono boutiques. It will be a feast to the eye and a feast to your tastebuds for sure.

You may even ran into a Geisha or two rushing off after her afternoon window shopping.
A group of young men dressed in samurai costumes getting ready for a performance.

The experience is priceless.

We were hoping to visit the temple after night falls. So we huge around the narrow street and waited over a large bowl of hot piping Udon.

Saturday, April 09, 2005

Day thirteen

It feels good to be back in Kyoto. I miss the culture and “old Japan” vibe of this ancient city. And also miss the familiarities we have grown accustom to.



We were to join Kemmy’s family for a Sakura picnic. Thousands flock to botanical gardens, shrines, and the Imperial Palace to celebrate this festival. They would throw elaborate picnics, dance and sing the day away. These delicate flowers when in full bloom only last for a couple of days. So the Japanese do not waste anytime with their celebrations.

Just a 10minutes ride on the train and we were there.

What a sight it was. Tens and tens dozens of these beautiful cherry blossom trees with their distinctive array of pastel pink and cloud white colours. A triumphant message to the world that Spring has arrived. Under them, thousands of admirers camped enjoying her shade and beauty. It was truly breathtaking.

We walked around a bit searching for a nice spot to have our lunch.

After settling comfortably under a large Sakura tree. We unpacked our picnic basket of raw beef, sushi, salmon sashimi, teriyaki chicken on sticks, citrus salads, and pretty Sakura sweet rice cakes. Not forgetting our selection of light beer – Kirin, Sapporo and Asahi. And Sake.
What a treat!

It was nice to have a relaxing afternoon after a week of walking and sight seeing.

I laid there. Under those large branches. In awe of its beauty and splendour.

That night. We brought Kemmy and Anchan out for dinner to thank them for their hospitality.

We went to a Yaki Tori restaurant. It is very similar to Korean barbeque but instead of hot plates. We were to cook our food in a grill embedded into our dinning table. I love the mushrooms and the spicy Ramen noodles. Yum


After dinner. We played a game of pool [and arcade Okdeo drums] and left the boys to their own device.

They returned home that night. Half drunk. What a hilarious sight!

Friday, April 08, 2005

Day twelve

Our last day in Tokyo.

We were meant have an early start to visit
Tsujiki Fish Market. However, by the time we managed to drag our sorry buds out of bed. It was already almost 9.30am.

I was happy that the market [though obviously has quieted down a far bit from the morning bidding and buttering] was still trading.

The selection of seafood for sale is staggering. You could buy literally anything that swims in the ocean. And buy them ALIVE!

I saw life fish of all types, octopus in little water filled bags, eels, prawns, crabs and sea crustaceans of all sorts. GIANT TUNA!

To get a clearer picture of the scale this market operates in. 2500 tonnes of fish worth approximately US$23million are sold here DAILY. That’s 670,000 tonnes of fish, worth over US$6million sold in a year! Wow!

With all these fresh fish so easily available. The market will no doubt be swamped with lots of sashimi & sushi restaurants.

There were more than a dozen of these tiny footstalls with their sushi chiefs behind counters, and cram dinning areas. And in the far distance, little stores selling Ramen noodles tucked unassumingly away into corner streets and narrow alleyways.

Mel was not up to the challenge of squeezing into little seats and rubbing elbows with a complete stranger while frantically trying to slurp up a large bowl of noodles. So we said our goodbyes to the market and searched for a more civilised dinning facility.

After lunch. We took a train to Shibuya. And made a quick stop at a nearby Starbucks to get our daily doze of caffeine.

I find the “small” chats over counters very amusing. Let me explain.

Every time we buy something. We have to firstly:
1) Get our doze of IRASHIMASE shouted in our face.
2) Than sit through a looong string of greetings.
3) Place our order. [And sometimes with some difficulty.]
4) Than wait for another loooong string of thank you’s before…
5) Paying our money.
6) Than sitting through yet another long string of well wishes!

And the really funny thing is. They know that we don’t speak a single word of Japanese!! How hilarious!!!

After a good wounder around Shibuya. We made our way to Tokyo station to catch the Shinkansen back to Kyoto.

Tokyo has been great!

I was a little sad when I left. However I was looking forward to getting back to rustic Kyoto.

We will say our goodbyes for now.

Thursday, April 07, 2005

Day eleven

Harajuku – Clearly marked by an archway decorated by a motif that looks like a meld of flowers and fried eggs. Harajuku is perhaps the most eclectic and exciting place in Tokyo to wander through shops.

I was a little overwhelmed at first. Peering out into the streets from a little side café. I saw teens dressed in the funniest, loudest and most gothic outfits imaginable. Almost every other person had some parts of his or her body pierced. Noise chains, huge pierced ear loops, lip rings, belly rings.

Chills down my spin…

The shops carried very interesting buys. Lots of glorious gold and silver bags, belts, and shoes. Cute little tops with the funkiest Japanese cartoon designs.

I bought myself a little tote bag made up of double picture reflective film of Astro Boy. Has to be one of my best buy ever. I get asked about it everywhere I go! I love it.

Tokyo is a lot warmer than Kyoto. By noon, I had striped down to just my sleeveless top and folded up jeans. It felt good to feel the warmth again.

We managed to cover quite a lot of grounds. Starting from Harajuku. We made our way on foot to
Shinjuku, Shibuya and back. Our feet were killing us, but our eyes still hunger for more.

We stumbled into a park with several [white] Cherry Blossom trees! In full bloom! Beauty!

We took the train back to our hotel for a much needed afternoon nap. After 2 hours. We were replenished and back on the streets again.

The neon lights of Kabukicho are really illuminating. You could hardly see the buildings, as they are all hidden behind millions after millions of bright signboards. I don’t think anyone actually pays any attention to what they are advertising. How could they? There are so many!

The streets are jammed packed with people. People in black suits, dolled up partygoers, teenagers with their baggy pants and skateboards, and vendors shouting to passing crowds. All seemingly rushing around with a purpose, and a destination. You almost feel lost not knowing what your next move would be!

One cannot walk along a street without getting a pamphlet waved at your face. Browsing along Kabukicho is quite a task. We got invitations into restaurants, bars, doggy clubs. Young men coming up to me asking if I needed a companion for the night! You could walk along a street for less than 300m and collect at least 5 packets of tissue paper! Fantastic!

We found ourselves a restaurant [with the best looking plastic food displays] and had Shabu Shabu dinner. [Shabu Shabu - a selection of tofu, mushroom, beef or chicken, udon and veges cooked in a big steamboat. Delicious.]

After dinner. We made our way to West Shinjuku. Park Hyatt Tokyo - The New York Bar, made famous by the movie
Lost in translation starring Scarlett Johansson and Bill Murray, directed by Sofia Coppola.

The view of Tokyo is incredible. The night-light stretches over the horizon showing the scale of this magnificent city. And the softly lit cool piano bar atmosphere made me feel like I was hovering over one of the most talked about cities in the world.

I stood for a minute by the huge glass walls that encase this bar and starred into the night-lights. It is truly stunning.

We were seated right next to the jazz band. With the skylights beneath our feet and the soft music by our side. We sipped our expensive cocktails and puffed on a Rey Del Mundo cigar.

What a beautiful way to remember Tokyo by.

Wednesday, April 06, 2005

Day ten continues

We had to change train to get to Tokyo Disneyland. The excitement started to build when we caught sight of the signature Disney castle approaching in the distance.

It was so exhilarating! Disney tunes blaring through the rails. Kids [AND adults] wearing Mickey-mouse plastic ears. Merchandise of all sorts, from star-studded Disney characters T-shirts to Donald duck biscuits. Big candyfloss! We were suddenly 5 all over again!!

10.00am: Armed with parades timetable, maps and show times schedule. We planned our day’s adventure.

I was dying to run into Mickey. One cannot fully experience Disneyland without meeting THE star! I scanned through the crowd of fake plastic ears in search of my mouse.

Found GOOFY!! YAY!!

Like all theme parks. There are thrill rides. Melvin was OBESSED with them! He wanted to be on the meanest, scariest, wildest rides. I had to remind him several times that we have kids in line with us. How scary could the rides be!? Come on…!!

I did not scream that loudly in Splash Drop!…. Did I?? “Ahem”

Unfortunately for me. Evidence of my cowardly outburst was caught on camera. A picture of our trunk like boat splashing down the waterfall was taken. All 6 of us screaming our heads off! It was so funny. We had to buy the picture.

The highlight of Disneyland had to be the parades. Neatly seated on opposite sides of the road. The crowd was greeted by dancing fairies, twirling flowers, cute little drafts, Disney cartoon characters, Fairy Godmothers. And of course, the all famous Mini and Mickey Mouse.

I was completely dazzled! I waved. I pointed. I laughed. I was delusional! Damn those sugar coated donuts!!!

Disneyland has 7 themes park. There are World Bazaar, Adventureland, Westernland, Critter Country, Fantasyland, Toontown and Tomorrowland. I liked Tomorrowland the best. Probably because they had the best ride. And star wars!

Trust the Japanese to be utterly organised. Every ride was so well managed. And the attendants, always so cheerful and perky. There were heaps of people. Yet most rides were made accessible to all. The magic formula - Fast Passes.

Every ride has a fast pass machine. It allocates time slots for your next ride. With it, one could bypass the long line of people, and be on the next available ride. It really helped distribute the crowd around. The catch is. You are only allowed one fast pass at a time. Geniuses!

A day is never enough to explore Disneyland properly. We were rushing around like headless chucks. Desperate not to miss out on anything. By nightfall, we were utterly exhausted.

Perfect time to sit, relax and enjoy a Broadway production of mini-mouse limelight show!

We were entertained by singers [in both languages - English and Japanese], dozen of dancers in bright Brazilian costumes, Disney characters, drums, flags and lots of acrobats jumping around!

I am absolutely impressed at mini mouse’s mobility in those huge red high heels clogs!!! Wow!

Straight after that. We rushed off to watch the night parade [Electric Dreams]. Streams after streams of colourful-lighted floats drove by. It was really a treat to the eyes.

I thought we should buy a souvenir to remember Disney by. Mel bought me this huge winnie the pooh bucket with popcorn in it. I hung it around my neck and helped myself to the hot crispy and fluffy snack. What a pig!

Tried but contented. We departed Disney at 9.00pm.

What a fulfilled day it was.

Tomorrow. We hit the notorious grounds of Harajuku, Shinjuku, Kabukicho, Shibuya and Roppongi. hhaaaiii!

Day ten

I wrote this while on board the pride and joy of Japan, the famous Shinkansen [Bullet Train] of the JR line. We had spent 3 glorious days in the capital of Japan and are making the journey back to Kyoto. The following pages are an account of our adventure in urban jungle Tokyo.

We had an early start today. Woke up at 5am and got ready to make our way to Kyoto Station to catch the Shinkansen to Tokyo. Our departure time was 6:35am…. Sharp!

Before flagging down a taxi. We made a quick stop to the local 24-hour supermarket to buy our breakfast and snacks. Tip – The platform on the JR line has kiosks selling food and snacks. However, at relatively high prices. The second option is to buy food on the bullet train itself. There are lady attendants pushing trolleys selling snacks and drinks. Again, an expensive alternative. So pack your meals before boarding if possible.

I bought myself a nice bento box meal. Melvin got some sushi rolls. And we got bread buns and fruits for snacks. Most supermarkets or mini-marts sell hot can drinks. You could find hot can drinks almost everywhere. Even in vending machines! We got ourselves each a can to warm our shivering bodies.

We arrived at the station way ahead of time, with about 40 minutes to spare. Melvin was obsessed about not missing the train, which probably is a prudent move. You only get one shot with the Shinkansen. Miss it, and you’ll have to buy yourself another ticket. An expensive lesson to learn.

I took a video when the train arrived. It was such an amazing sight. I had heard SO much about the Shinkansen and its brilliance in the world of transportation. But never did I think I could actually get so excited over a train! It was truly magnificent.

We found our seats. Placed our bags in the overhead compartment, and settled in. It was so comfortable. Like flying in a domestic airline. I was very impressed.

At 6:35am sharp. We departed for Tokyo. The train did not truly pick up speed till we hit the main tracks. After then, we were flying at over 250km/hr. My adrenaline was pumping. I watched as houses whisked past me in a flash. I took another video to help remember how fast we were going. It was such a ride!

We were due to arrive in Tokyo in 2 hrs. I allowed myself a short nap to recuperate from the excitement. Woke up about ½ an hr later and ate my delicious bento box meal. It was really yummy. Took another short video to document my mini feast. hehe..

Mount Fuji just past us!!! Thankfully. I have my trusty camera by my side. ‘Click’

Tokyo. Home to thousands of Pachinko parlours, millions of vending machines, tens of millions of city dwellers, countless neon light signboards and capital of Japan.

Our first destination?!

It has to be Tokyo Disneyland!!

Tuesday, April 05, 2005

Day nine




We woke up to the smells of barbeque fish. Breakfast!?

Last night after dinner, we returned to the room to find all furniture neatly tucked away to make way for our white fluffy futons. They are SO comfortable. Hardly feel like you were sleeping on the floor. We need to get these for our guest room when we get back.

Breakfast was served at 8:30am. I could not believe how much food we had to eat!

A traditional Japanese breakfast consists of mainly rice, miso soup and sometimes pickles. And that was what we had for breakfast. Even had a nice pot of steamed Tofu and barbeque fish (which we have to grill ourselves!!) on the side. This meal is definitely going take us through to dinner!

We took our final dip in the hot spring bath in the room before heading back home.

The lake behind us apparently shares the same area as Singapore!!! What THE!!!!

We parted ways with Kemmy, baby Rey and her mum and sister at Kyoto station.



Melvin and I were off to visit Japan’s tallest Pagoda. Toji Temple [Kyo-oh-gokokuji Temple]

Established in 794 by imperial decree to protect the city. This temple suffered through much devastation like fire and civil war. The main attraction, Goju-no-to, despite being burnt down several times, was rebuilt in 1643. This 57m monument now stands as Japan’s tallest Pagoda.

After taking some pictures. We set off to our next destination. Higashi Honganji – free admission.

This temple is the Mausoleum of Shinran Shonin [1173 – 1262], the founder of the Shinshu Otani-ha, one of Japan’s largest Buddhist denominations. Apparently, this is where followers from all over the world gather to listen to the Buddha-Dharma of Shinran.

Nishi Honganji. Just a stone throws away, is the rival temple. Built in 1272 [by the daughter of Shinran, Priestess Kakushin] in the Higashiyama Mountain. It was later moved to its present site in 1591. This temple is certainly more impressive artistically than Higashi Honganji.

We had to place our shoes in plastic bags before entering into the temple main hall.

The 2 storeys Taishido-mon gate stands 27m tall and features giant doors craved out from a single slab of wood! Along the hallway, I found a glass showcase encasing a large coil of rope made by human hair [kezuna]!!

After the fire destruction, due to the lack of strong ropes available. A group of female devotees donated their logs to haul the timber frames that hold the structure of this majestic temple.

The largest rope measures 110m, has a circumference of 20cm, and weighs 1000kg!

Amazing isn’t it.




On our way home. I took a picture of a shrine waged in-between tall office buildings, the infamous Kyoto Tower. And a Hello Kitty tombstone for sale.

That my friends, is Japan hour for you!!