Wednesday, April 06, 2005

Day ten

I wrote this while on board the pride and joy of Japan, the famous Shinkansen [Bullet Train] of the JR line. We had spent 3 glorious days in the capital of Japan and are making the journey back to Kyoto. The following pages are an account of our adventure in urban jungle Tokyo.

We had an early start today. Woke up at 5am and got ready to make our way to Kyoto Station to catch the Shinkansen to Tokyo. Our departure time was 6:35am…. Sharp!

Before flagging down a taxi. We made a quick stop to the local 24-hour supermarket to buy our breakfast and snacks. Tip – The platform on the JR line has kiosks selling food and snacks. However, at relatively high prices. The second option is to buy food on the bullet train itself. There are lady attendants pushing trolleys selling snacks and drinks. Again, an expensive alternative. So pack your meals before boarding if possible.

I bought myself a nice bento box meal. Melvin got some sushi rolls. And we got bread buns and fruits for snacks. Most supermarkets or mini-marts sell hot can drinks. You could find hot can drinks almost everywhere. Even in vending machines! We got ourselves each a can to warm our shivering bodies.

We arrived at the station way ahead of time, with about 40 minutes to spare. Melvin was obsessed about not missing the train, which probably is a prudent move. You only get one shot with the Shinkansen. Miss it, and you’ll have to buy yourself another ticket. An expensive lesson to learn.

I took a video when the train arrived. It was such an amazing sight. I had heard SO much about the Shinkansen and its brilliance in the world of transportation. But never did I think I could actually get so excited over a train! It was truly magnificent.

We found our seats. Placed our bags in the overhead compartment, and settled in. It was so comfortable. Like flying in a domestic airline. I was very impressed.

At 6:35am sharp. We departed for Tokyo. The train did not truly pick up speed till we hit the main tracks. After then, we were flying at over 250km/hr. My adrenaline was pumping. I watched as houses whisked past me in a flash. I took another video to help remember how fast we were going. It was such a ride!

We were due to arrive in Tokyo in 2 hrs. I allowed myself a short nap to recuperate from the excitement. Woke up about ½ an hr later and ate my delicious bento box meal. It was really yummy. Took another short video to document my mini feast. hehe..

Mount Fuji just past us!!! Thankfully. I have my trusty camera by my side. ‘Click’

Tokyo. Home to thousands of Pachinko parlours, millions of vending machines, tens of millions of city dwellers, countless neon light signboards and capital of Japan.

Our first destination?!

It has to be Tokyo Disneyland!!

Tuesday, April 05, 2005

Day nine




We woke up to the smells of barbeque fish. Breakfast!?

Last night after dinner, we returned to the room to find all furniture neatly tucked away to make way for our white fluffy futons. They are SO comfortable. Hardly feel like you were sleeping on the floor. We need to get these for our guest room when we get back.

Breakfast was served at 8:30am. I could not believe how much food we had to eat!

A traditional Japanese breakfast consists of mainly rice, miso soup and sometimes pickles. And that was what we had for breakfast. Even had a nice pot of steamed Tofu and barbeque fish (which we have to grill ourselves!!) on the side. This meal is definitely going take us through to dinner!

We took our final dip in the hot spring bath in the room before heading back home.

The lake behind us apparently shares the same area as Singapore!!! What THE!!!!

We parted ways with Kemmy, baby Rey and her mum and sister at Kyoto station.



Melvin and I were off to visit Japan’s tallest Pagoda. Toji Temple [Kyo-oh-gokokuji Temple]

Established in 794 by imperial decree to protect the city. This temple suffered through much devastation like fire and civil war. The main attraction, Goju-no-to, despite being burnt down several times, was rebuilt in 1643. This 57m monument now stands as Japan’s tallest Pagoda.

After taking some pictures. We set off to our next destination. Higashi Honganji – free admission.

This temple is the Mausoleum of Shinran Shonin [1173 – 1262], the founder of the Shinshu Otani-ha, one of Japan’s largest Buddhist denominations. Apparently, this is where followers from all over the world gather to listen to the Buddha-Dharma of Shinran.

Nishi Honganji. Just a stone throws away, is the rival temple. Built in 1272 [by the daughter of Shinran, Priestess Kakushin] in the Higashiyama Mountain. It was later moved to its present site in 1591. This temple is certainly more impressive artistically than Higashi Honganji.

We had to place our shoes in plastic bags before entering into the temple main hall.

The 2 storeys Taishido-mon gate stands 27m tall and features giant doors craved out from a single slab of wood! Along the hallway, I found a glass showcase encasing a large coil of rope made by human hair [kezuna]!!

After the fire destruction, due to the lack of strong ropes available. A group of female devotees donated their logs to haul the timber frames that hold the structure of this majestic temple.

The largest rope measures 110m, has a circumference of 20cm, and weighs 1000kg!

Amazing isn’t it.




On our way home. I took a picture of a shrine waged in-between tall office buildings, the infamous Kyoto Tower. And a Hello Kitty tombstone for sale.

That my friends, is Japan hour for you!!

Monday, April 04, 2005

Day eight continues

A couple of days ago, we had booked us all in for a 2 days pampering retreat at an Onsen in the shire of Ryokusuitei just an hour train ride away from Kyoto city.

After being picked up from the train station, we arrived at the Osen early noon and were ready to soak our aching travelled bodies in the famous hot spring baths.

We followed the lady attendant through the hallways and through narrow clean wooden corridoors decorated with little gardens of rocks, water wells and bonsai like miniature trees.

Our room was a VIP suite room so it was spacious. The floors were lined with
Tatami Mats which gave the room a wonderful sent AND we have our VERY OWN personal hot-spring bath!!!

We changed into the Yukata [kimono like coats] that were provided and made our way to the large public bath for our first hot spring bath experience.

I have to admit it was quite unsettling at first having to walk around bud naked in the bath. We were only given a tiny face tower so it barely covered anything. hahah.....

The Japanese women on the other hand were all extremely at ease with the nudity that surrounds us. As we were desperately clinging onto our pathetically small towel trying to shield off whatever “important” parts we could shield, they were out open in all their glory totally unaffected! It was hilarious!

Slipping into the bath and out of the freezing cold air was heaven. Every bone and muscle in my body instantly relaxed and I felt so light.

I did not care that I was pruning like a … well …prune at the end of the day. I promised myself that I would take as many dips as humanly possible. So by dinner, I had taken 3 dips at the public bath, and 2 in the privacy of our room. And if Melvin hadn’t stopped me, I would have gone for more! =Pt5

Dinner was provided at the resort so with fully relaxed muscles and a famished tummy, we made our way to the dinning hall.


Japanese take a lot of pride in presentations. Whether it’s in their choice of clothing, or the sweets they sell, or the food they eat. Everything is always so impeccably, and artistically decorated.


Dinner of course was not an exception. Looking at the tray in front of me. One can only guess the amount of effort placed into it. It feels almost wrong to touch it!

For someone like me who loves to mix flavours. It was another heaven moment. Once I took my first bite, there was no stopping me.


**The little cutie on the right is my gf's little kid. Isn't that the cutest face you have ever seen!!!

After dinner and a little rest. My gf and I decided to take our final dip for the day and on our way back to our room after, we thought we heard a familiar voice blaring away to the tunes of Unchain Melody from the karaoke room in the hallway. We peered into the karaoke room and low and behold, we found Melvin singing his heart out to a crowd of adoring fans of little old men and little old ladies!!

These old folks really know how to party! There was alcohol, cigars, cheering, singing and lots of dancing. Armed with only our Yukata and nothing under! We precariously joined in the party and danced away to traditional line dance of repetitive claps, waves and stamping of feet. It was good fun. We were treated like super stars after that repertoire and suddenly everyone wanted to know who we are and where we come from! And the next thing I know, I was asked by a (cheeky enough looking) old men to dance!

I accepted politely and spent the next 10 minutes sweating myself as I frantically held onto my Yukata for fear of it coming undone while he twirls me around the dance floor.

In the meantime fading away in the background was Melvin contently puffing away at his cigar, making smoke rings having a good laugh at my expense. Grr. Lousy unprotective husband....!!

Day eight

We were invited to a local funfair at the school grounds of my gf’s hubby's alta mata. The school had since closed, but fundraisers are held every year to maintain this old historical heritage. Her father-in-law is a [volunteer] committee member for the event so we were given lots of coupons to spurge. heee....

We peddled on bicycles through streets lined with old wooden houses, local shrines, busy pedestrians walkways, and narrow back lanes to the school, making a pit stop at a small neighbouhood shrine to admire plum trees that were in full bloom. The flowers looked like little red lollies stuck on tress!

After 15 minutes of peddling, we arrived at the elementary school. I felt it was huge for it’s purpose and very grand.

We used our given coupons to buy food and played games. And I bought myself a chic chequered overcoat for just AU$10 from one of the odd goods stores. Cool.


Food we ate at the fare consisted of Japanese sausages, fried udon, sweet rice cakes, radish, white carrot and fish cake soup, and those ham and cheese balls. We were stuffed!

As we were amongst “friends”, we were given the VIP treatment. We were showered with gifts of complimentary food samples from almost every store! It was great as we got to sample everything! And in return of theur kind gestures, we allowed them to practise their English on us. haha.. it was so much fun.




We sat through a tea ceremony after all the eating and were served with traditional sweet cakes wrapped with salty Sakura leaf, followed by the famous thick rich green tea.

The extreme sweet and salty flavours from the rice cake blended perfectly well with the bitterness of the tea. It is pure genius that they could strike such a balance with such extreme flavours. Beautiful.





Outside in the courtyards were people playing chess on wooden planks hovered above a peaceful stream, above them swaying gently in the breeze are weeping cherry blossom trees. And when the wind blows, it brings along a string of soft petal rain that's so light and delicate, you couldn't feel them falling on your face.

And so it concludes half of my eighth day in the land of the beautiful rising sun.....

To be continued.....

Sunday, April 03, 2005

Day seven

I am absolutely devastated.

My dear husband, while playing with the camera last night, accidentally deleted all our pictures. I literally cried myself to sleep last night. Humph… whimper whimper..

Today, we will be scurrying through some of our favourite spots in hope to recover some lost memories.

God must have heard my sobs cause as we were wondering through the back streets talking a short cut route, we ran into a Geisha and a Maiko window-shopping.

I was snapping away like a maniac! Thankfully, I was not the only one that stumbled upon these mystical creatures. There was a group of photographers hot in their trail snapping away with their scary looking paparizzi cameras. The women must be so used to the attention as they did not seem to mind the intrusion at all!

I was soooo happy after that. =)


After the "encounter", we went back to the riverbanks of Ponto-Cho to watch a Geisha Dance, ate some more red bean pancakes and rice cakes and take more pictures.

Our next port of call, Ginkakuji temple – 600 yen/pple.


It was built in 1482 by shogun
Ashikaga Yoshimotsu [same creator of Kinkakuji]. Apparently used as a retreat from the turmoils of the civil war, this villa [later converted temple] was supposed to be covered in silver leaf [foil]. A mission that will never be completed.

Like Ryoanji Shrine, there is a reeked stone garden in the temple. This one however possesses a meticulously reeked white sand stone cone which seemingly looks simple has a real ingenius purpose in the garden. Apparently it was designed to reflect the moonlight, thus enhancing the beauty of the garden at night. Who would have thought!??

Temple gardens always fascinate me. How every moss, plant and tree are never randomly placed, but so purposefully yet effortlessly positioned to translate tranquillity and harmony. And if you just sit and observe a gardener going about his chores. You could just see the love and passion he or she has for these little plants. Every touch so tender and meticulous.

I took a picture of a sign pointing to a planter box of mosses saying "VERY IMPORTANT MOSS, LIKE VIP".

I concur.





Back in city, we stopped by Taramachi to buy green tea for our family and friends back home. The rich aroma from the ascortment of teas on sale at the little famous side shop was so tantalizing. Especially the roasted and charred ones. We bought 7 bags of the roasted green tea and 2 bottles of Sake from a couple of shops down, one cold and hot. I sense a Japanese-theme party brewing when we get back to Sydney!

We made a quick stop at my gf's parents-in-law shop to say hi, dropped off some gifts and bought myself a beautiful lovely peach pink kimono with cherry blossom prints.*BEAM*



Before heading back home, we detoured back to Gion to take some day shots of the cherry blossom trees (cause all we had were night shots). I am simply in LOVE with these perfectly pastel pink and white flowers. I just could not get enough of them!

The Japanese too are clearly fasinated by these once a year delicate flowers. They have poems and songs written about them, pink and white sweets rice cakes with bean-filled sakura-mochi specially made this time of the year, all purposely done to demonstrate and celebrate the vibrancy and beauty of the cherry blossoms.

Melvin thought they looked like giant popcorns growing on trees. I have nothing futher to add. haha



Saturday, April 02, 2005

Day six

We woke up late and lazed around the house till noon before setting off.

There were lots of Matsuri celebrations all around the city to welcome in the coming Sakura season, so we decided we'll have to visit one today. Together with my gf and her SUPER cute little 2 year old, we made our way to Kyoto City Hall to watch a local dance troupe perform their annual dance rituals.

The colours of the performers' costume were so vibrant. There were dancers of all ages, from as little as 5 years old to the older folks in their 70s performing and dancing away, all filled with so much enthusiasm and passion. I love it.

I particularly liked a dance that mimics a fisherman’s labour. The pulling of the rope, the weight of the net, the joy of the catch, so brilliantly displayed.

Our cameras were snapping away uncontrollably. Our feet were taping. And our eyes were transfixed on a chirpy, well-built, young chap who quite obviously is enjoying the attention.

My gf and I giggled away like mindless teenagers, happily having a harmless flirt, when suddenly her son carelessly ran up to us wanting a mummy snuggle. We shamelessly pretended he was not ours for a minute before sucumming to his cute little plea.

After the performance, we made our way to an international food fare just 15mins walk away. I shared a kebab with my gf and 2 red bean pancakes with Mel. It was SO good.

We spent the next half hour sampling all sorts of Japanese snacks and desserts. I simply LOVE those red bean cakes. I swear I will never get tired of them. Not ever.


We parted ways after sunset and Mel & I were left to explore the nightlife of the infamous
Ponto-Cho.

Once a red light district, Ponto-Cho has since been transformed into a traditional hub for dinning and nighttime entertainment. This narrow street [running between the Kamo-gawa and Kiyamachiodori] is jammed pack with Jazz bars, traditional teahouses, Sushi bars and restaurants. Perfect place to spot Geishas and Maikos [apprentice geisha] rushing around for their party appointments.

This is so uniquely Japan.

We found a nice cosy bar by the river and settled in. Mel had his whisky on the rocks and I ordered a cocktail called Kamikaze. It was literally to DIE FOR. (sorry... hehe)

The view and ambience of the bar is so relaxing. I sit there in the soft lights, comfy couches, jazz music in the background, window view of the river lined with lighted up cherry blossom trees writing in my journal recording what we had done, seen and felt for the day. Blissfully sublime.

After pumping enough poison into our bodies. We walked down to have a closer look at the lighted up cherry blossom trees.

They are SO beautiful. No wonder the Japanese could not have enough of them.

I closed my eyes to take a mental picture. And backed that up with lots of digital shots. What a sight to remember.


**Here's a picture of me and my gf infront of a beautiful weeping cherry blossom tree.

Friday, April 01, 2005

Day five

9:00 am: It is freezing outside!! Burr

10:45am: Bought our day bus pass and took no. 26 to Kyoto Station.

11:00am: Decided to have an early lunch in one of the restaurants at
Isetan. Mel ordered tempura don, and I, cold soba with tempura. yummm

12:15pm: Boarded bus 205 to our first temple destination -
Kinkakuji – 500 yen / pple

Better known as the “Golden Pavilion”. This is perhaps one of the most visited temples in Japan. The original building was constructed in 1397 as a retirement villa for shogun
Ashikaga Yoshimotsu which was later transformed into a temple by his son.

The 3-storey pavilion is covered in bright gold leaf [foil] and features a bronze phoenix on the roof.

It is fascinating looking at the rich Chinese influence this ancient architect of Japan holds. Some parts of my ancestral heritage contributed to that. Cool!

This is an insanely popular temple so we literally had to fight for a spot to take a picture of the pavilion.

2:30pm: Departed Kinkajuji and made our way to
Ryoanji Shrine (on bus no 12). – 500 yen / pple

In my opinion. This is by far a more majestic sight that Kinkakuji.

The focal point of this temple is the karesansui style [what we now know as Zen] garden. An oblong sand with an austere collection of 15 rocks placed strategically to reveal the simplicity and harmony of the principles of Zen mediation.

We sat down amongst the silent crowd and stared into the reeked stones desperately trying to feel the yin and the yang. Took us barely 5mins before we were bored out of our brains!! I blame it on the cured short attention span syndrome of the "W" generation.

Oh! Did I mention I spotted an early blooming cherry blossom tree! It’s sooo pretty I could just cry…. !!!

4:00pm: Shortly after departing the temple, we wondering in the back alleyways of the neighbouring suburbs and got absolutely lost.

We wondered through streets after streets of narrow houses, primary schools, local barba shops, and grocery stores. It was such an enduring experience.

I saw mothers picking their toddlers from pre-school in bicycles. All very impeccably dressed of course. How they manage to peddle with those high heels are beyond me. Little old men playing chess so deep in concentration they barely move. Kids kicking soccer ball along the back streets. And in the corner, a group of young men firing up for a local game of baseball.

It was a perfect day.

4:45pm: We finally found a main street and took bus 91 home. I was SO grateful as my feet were killing me!

5:20pm: Arrived home just in time for the Sakura celebration dinner.

We were to have a Japanese style steamboat feast dozed with plenty of my favourite shitake mushroom, tofu, kobe beef, udon and Saka!

My gf had her whole extended family-in-law over so the night was filled with lots of true blue Kyoto born and breed locals. Everyone wanted to practise his or her English on us it was hilarious! We had SO. Much. Fun. AND. So much Japanese karaoke inspired performances!

11:30pm: Drown with Sake and Sapporo. We unfolded our futons and slumbered into the night feeling absolutely certain today has given us a culture exchange experience of a lifetime.